Model Review - Orc Buggy by PUPETSWAR

Hi!

During Hussar event I bought my first full resin model. It was an “Ork buggy” made by PUPETSWAR.

When I fierst look on this model on table – only thoughts in my head where “It’s great wasteland stuff. I want it paint and rust it in the same way as People during MadMaxCar competition on Massive Voodoo”.

For those not familiar with the brand, it’s a small company from Warsaw, Poland that makes crazy resin stuff, generally in 28mm heroic scale. Their models made by Polish sculptors in unique fairy and grotesque style.

You can find the PUPETSWAR website here.
So for this review I’ll show you this buggy:

Orc Buggy

Here’s the images from their website:

Orc buggy

Ok, it looks quite great on the picture right?

What you get

As website said:

The set contains 6 wheels, 5 lights, 1 flamethrower, 3 armored plates for windows, barrel for flamethrower ammunition, 2 mufflers, double barreled machinegun, rocket launcher and 2 part mounting kit.

What you get comes in the smallblister: Unfortunately I was so excited that glue tougether body that was in two parts and armored plate for front window lost during packing and unpacking… so u see glued together body and one armor plate missing.

Resin and sculpting quality

You get a very detailed resin mini. The cast details are very sharp. Not much to add.
You have to clean some mold lines and fill few small holes. Generally car is very simple to build. Just glue luggage compartment and engine-driver parts. These two parts fits well, but any way you have to use green stuff to fulfill few hollow spaces. Also I use some liquid green stuff to flat surface. In my opinion this new “thing” from GW is great but needs to be diluted with water and next flat by sand paper.

Gamer says:

In my opinion this model can be grot buggy – not ork. This car has dimensions ca. 80x40mm that gives us in real life 28 by 80x40 = 2.240x1.120 m. It is more or less smart dimensions. In my opinion this modes is a bit too small for a ork buggy.

Where I can use this model:

• GW games: Warhammer 40k universe (fits any army that can have wasteland cars orks army, humans and renegades).
• Infinity game but I’m not so familiar with it co my guess is nice model for diorama.
• Some post nuclear or wasteland games systems…

Painter says:

From a painter point of view, in my opinion you get a very nice and inspiring model that is big challenge. I hope in future I’ll paint this model in a few stiles and for the few different universes. As you can see on scale comparison image I’m almost finish paint this buggy. First of all I see this model on fallout universe wasteland so next article will be about how I paint this car following Przemo tutorial about aerography as it will be my 1^st fully painted model by aero and some freehands using stencil technics and classical final brush works.

Final words:

Is it worth to have it? YES it is. This is a great and fine model. I like paint it. Model is simple to add some stuff and small conversions. Cheers! Lisius

Zenithal basecoat using airbrush

Hi!

During Hussar 2011 competition – the greatest Polish painting contest (22.10.2011) - there were some painting classes done by such a great artists as Ana and Camelson. I have had to prepare some minis for classes participants (thanks to using projector during this workshop, everybody was able to try shown technics on his own).

I’ll present a fast tutorial showing how you can paint a really good zenithal basecoat on your minis.
Let’s start:

1) A solid black basecoat done with a can. It’s much faster than using airbrush.

2) Now it’s time to make a first layer of zenital light. It’s better to use airbrush than a can, because it gives much smoother effect. You can also precisely choose which elements will be lighten. Remember to add some medium to your grey paint while using an airbrush. I prefer a flow improver medium. Paint your mini from above – just as if there was sun in zenith. You can of course lighten some elements you want to be brighter then others, e.g some fokal points – it may be a sword that you want to paint in bright colours (maybe yellow?).

3) Next, white layer is painted in a similar way. Just remember to leave some areas already painted in grey. White paint should be just in most lighten areas. While using airbrush one may have problems with white paint – which (probably because of specific white pigment) dries fast and may stick up your airbrush. To avoid such a problem I add some flow improver and also some glaze medium. Glaze medium has some retarder medium in it, so don’t add to much glaze medium to your paint. Otherwise your paint will be drying for ages.

4) Some tips:

• you can use different colours, try cold/warm colours for priming. It’s how you can create a general cold/warm effect on the whole mini.
• personally, I prefer to make lighten areas quite big. On light primer you can paint some saturated colours and nice glazes.

Priming step by step:

A squad ready for painting classes:

Cheers! Przemo

Reloaded Warsaw Painting Team

Welcome) I'm Starting work on reloaded Warsaw Painting Team blog. Please be patient grots are working! Peace Lisius:)